>[оверквотинг удален]
>  CustomLog ${APACHE_LOG_DIR}/access.log combined
> <Directory />
>     AllowOverride FileInfo Options
>     AllowOverride All
> </Directory>
> .htaccess:
> RewriteEngine on
> RewriteCond %{REQUEST_FILENAME} !-f
> RewriteCond %{REQUEST_FILENAME} !-d
> RewriteRule . index.php

не там редактировал, а нужно было
/etc/apache2/apache2.conf

<Directory /var/www/html>
        AllowOverride FileInfo Options
        AllowOverride All
</Directory>